Milan is proud of its fashion heritage, and this is justified, considering the number, prestige and power of its brands. The city is the undisputed centre of fashion in Italy, and it competes with Paris and New York for global importance. There is no doubt that France has the longest tradition in this field, with many historic brands such as Chanel, Hermès, Yves Saint Laurent and many others, but Italy is not far behind, with names such as Trussardi celebrating their first centenary.
This is a positive period for the luxury sector, after a few very difficult years that saw considerable reductions in sales. 2010 saw a small improvement, and some brands are looking forward to a recovery in 2011. So, when men's collections for autumn-winter 2011-2012 were on the runways in January, there was keen interest from the buyers and specialist journalists who are habitually invited to see the shows. A seat was a rare commodity for journalists working on the edge of the sector, and nearly all the shows were packed to bursting. In February it's the turn of women's fashion. Runway shows are still reserved for buyers and specialist press, but the industry has realized that direct contact with the general public is becoming increasingly important, and so a few brands transmit their shows on line in direct streaming, while the shows themselves have been moved out from the trade fair district and into prestige central locations. British brand Burberry, with their chief creative officer Christopher Bailey, are one of the most innovative brands in this respect. Their show can be seen live on line, and featured garments can actually be purchased right away, again on line. This was a giant step forwards, considering that most brands place their products on sale from about six months after the runway shows.
The fashion timetable is rather mysterious for people who are not familiar with the system. The shows in January and February 2011 present clothes which will be in fashion in winter 2011-2012. This means that the initial research on styles, colours and accessories began about two years before the results can actually be seen in boutiques and on the street. So-called "cool hunters" search out the seeds of trends which will be offered to international markets much later, premiered at the fashion shows and presentations.
And so, the stage is set for the show: the VIP guests have arrived, the photographers are shoulder to shoulder at the end of the runways. Twenty minutes late – a virtually mandatory condition – the lights go down, the place begins to vibrate with music from powerful amplifiers, and the spotlights pick out the details on the first model wearing the first look. It's all about that cherished Milanese tradition, bella figura, and during fashion week, Milan truly puts on a fine show.
Henry Neuteboom