Strolling amidst art and nature in Parco Sempione

Now that spring is arriving, why not take a stroll in Milan’s largest park, to enjoy a romantic landscape of trees and ponds surrounded by many historical buildings? Emerging from the Cairoli red line metro station, you are immediately greeted by a 3-tiered fountain that is a favorite for snapshots, but that would make anyone look forward to warmer weather. Perhaps the best way to get to the park is through the courtyards of the Sforza Castle, an enormous edifice that has been around since 1348, with the walls apparently perforated with holes. These were actually for the mediaeval scaffolding, and they are now popular with pigeons who are building their future nests. If you have some time, the interiors of the Castle could surprise you, with its six vastly different museums. They comprise Ancient Art, Musical Instruments, Decorative Arts, Pre-History and Post-History, Ancient Egypt, and the picture gallery. Some of the most famous pieces are Michelangelo’s last work, the Pietà Rondanini, which is a marble sculpture of the Virgin Mary holding her dead son Jesus, and the “Book of the Dead“, an ancient Egyptian papyrus in hieroglyphic script. The picture gallery has a truly fine collection, with pieces shown in chronological order, from the mid-15th century. The Furniture collection is also interesting, as it compares historical pieces with modern and contemporary designer furniture, showing some surprising similarities. The museum is open Tuesday-Sunday 9:00-17:30, and at three euros a person, this is a great option for travelers on a budget.

We might also suggest going to the Civic Aquarium, which is just behind the Castle. It is an outstanding piece of art itself. Built in the Art Nouveau style, the front of the building features a large fountain with the head of a hippopotamus spouting water over lilies and tiny colorful goldfish, while above stands a large statue of Poseidon, the god of the sea, holding a triton. While the exterior of the aquarium fits its status as the third oldest aquarium in the world, the inside is entirely new, after its recent renovation. The serene blue of the tanks presents 100 different types of underwater habitats, from mountain streams to the Po delta. The aquarium even has a tank in the shape of a tunnel, so that you feel as if you were underwater, with the fish swimming over your head and around you. There is an outdoor reservoir where you can stop by to see the Koi fish swimming under the water lilies.

Your walk in the park has not yet finished so exit the aquarium through the front entrance, and look for a gate on the right where you will certainly see the massive Civic Arena, used for many sports activities such as football matches and winter skating events. But it is worth learning a little about its rich history. Inaugurated by Napoleon Bonaparte on August 17, 1806, this Neoclassical building was inspired by Rome’s Circus of Caracalla, and the French Emperor intended it to be a symbol of his power. It was often used for mock naval battles, with the central part of the arena completely flooded by water delivered by underground conduits from the canals. Today this form of entertainment is remembered only in period photographs, and the groundsmen concentrate on trying to keep the tracks and turf dry.

While walking through the trees and statues towards the center of the park, you may be surprised to notice a rotten eggs smell coming from an octagonal fountain. Even though the water tastes almost as bad as it smells, it is apparently very healthy, so dare to try a sip. The water comes from a natural spring and it contains sulphur, a mineral referred to as brimstone in the Bible, and one that has been used medicinally for thousands of years. It is said to increase a person’s resistance to disease, help regulate their blood sugar and prevent nasty aches and pains caused by the cold. It is also used in soaps as it is known to be good for skin. If the smelly water doesn’t appeal as a beverage, you could have a more fragrant drink at Bar Bianco instead, a café close to the lake in the park. 

While drinking a cocktail, you might snag a view of the Branca Tower. Ironically this 97-meter metal tower stands among the trees, mixing nature with architecture. It is a metaphor for power and strength. It used to have a restaurant at the top; however this has been removed and the tower can now be visited by lift. The platform at the top provides exceptional views on clear days, right across to the river Po and the Apennines beyond, and to the Alps northwards. And of course you will also see the Arch of Peace, which was commissioned by Napoleon to celebrate his triumphs, placing six horses driven by himself on top, victorious and facing the north and France. But after his defeat, he had to abandon Milan to the Austrians, who changed his statue into a symbol of Peace and turned all the bronze figures to face the city center instead of Paris.

It may take an entire day to discover all the hidden treasures of Parco Sempione and Castello Sforzesco, but even just a quick walk around the park is a worthwhile addition to a visit to the city.

by Liza Giambra, Sharon Yi and Katherine Bonnin