It is August in Milan and no one is here. Of course not. They are all at the beach for the month. But that is fine. Now you have the city to yourself and can find a mix of the historic sights of the city right next to the more modern pleasures of Milan. And you can find the sort of nudity that you would expect to see only on the beaches of Rimini.
There is an area of the city named Brera. The name comes from an ancient monastery, but today it is used above all for a lively and artistic neighborhood. It has always been a place of culture and education, right from the 1300s when the monastery was there, presumably in a green meadow (the name “Brera” comes from the word “Braida”, a green clearing). The Jesuit Order took over the building in 1572, and in the 17th century they commissioned its reconstruction, designed by Francesco Richini. Today, the palazzo is famous for the Pinacoteca di Brera (art gallery). In the same building there is the fine arts academy, a beautiful library, an astronomical observatory, and a botanic garden. Outside of the palazzo itself there are numerous galleries, shops and cafes.
Religious orders had a hard time of it during the Age of Enlightenment, and the Jesuit Order was suppressed in 1772. At that time, the city was under Austrian rule, and in particular empress Maria Theresa of Austria. She ordered the conversion of the building, utilizing the skills of architect Piermarini, and desired to create a center of learning. She added the botanical gardens in 1774, and then the academy and Pinacoteca in 1776 to house artwork as inspiration for the students. Can you imagine having works by master artists in front of you while you learn to paint yourself?
But that would only last so long. At the end of the 18th century, control of Milan by the Austrians ended and Italy entered a period of French rule under Napoleon. Milan was always considered an important city by invading empires because of the wealth of so many of the families living here. And with Napoleon now in charge, the use of the palazzo would change too.
Napoleon liked the idea of a strong and prosperous Milan as long as it did not outshine Paris. His policy of taking artwork by force from everywhere under his control ultimately helped Milan and the Pinacoteca. He did not focus on education like the Austrians, but he sent many of the treasures that he seized from all over Italy and the rest of Europe to be stored and viewed in the Pinacoteca.
The emperor left another important piece of art at Brera, the huge statue in which he is shown as god Mars, now is in the middle of the courtyard. Actually, the story is a little more complex. Antonio Canova sculpted the original in marble from 1803 to 1806. But Napoleon didn’t like the nudity and he refused the work. After causing a scandal in Paris, because the French did not find it appropriate to view Napoleon in the nude, it was purchased by Lord Wellington in 1815, and it now resides in London at Apsley House. Canova himself had made five copies in plaster, and one can now be seen in the Brera Gallery. The bronze version in the courtyard was cast in 1811, but it was positioned there only in 1859.
After you pass though the courtyard, averting your eyes if the unclothed Napoleon makes you uncomfortable, you will enter the hallways of the academy. Further down this corridor, you reach the stairs of the observatory. The main draw here is the collection of antique astronomy instruments on display. Admission to the observatory is free but it is not open at weekends.
If instead of studying the heavens you prefer more earthly pleasures, you can visit the botanic gardens. The entrance to the gardens is in Via Fiori Oscuri, down a track to the left of the back door of the Academy. Taking a stroll through these gardens is not the typical walk through English formal gardens that you may have come to expect from a botanical garden. Here everything is wilder. The 18th-century arrangement of long beds has been restored. There are spaces where students are cultivating specific plants for study, and pieces of sculpture are tucked away into corners and under the trees. Almost hidden in the center is a small pond. The challenge is to identify the different kinds of fish darting around underneath the lily pads and plants.
But don’t miss a visit to the Braidense National Library. Even the entrance reminds you that this is a place intended for students rather than tourists, but have no fear: once inside, the librarians in attendance will be quick to give you an English version of their pamphlet describing the history of the library. However, they will not let you get too close to the beautiful old books, since they are delicate and need to be kept in a carefully controlled climate.
The Braidense is another example of modernity and history existing together to benefit the students and citizens of Milan. When you enter the rooms that are open for viewing, you can see the old and rare books on the antique wooden shelves alongside the tables supporting computer screens for information searches. For the most part the services offered by the library are intended for students of the academy. However, all Italian and EU citizens over 18 years old residing in Milan and the region of Lombardy can apply for permission to borrow items from the library free of charge. There are strict rules about access to the various parts of the library since it contains valuable manuscripts and rare antique books. The general reading room and the reference room are open to all readers with special places reserved for researchers.
The history of the book collection at the Braidense library follows roughly the same lines as that of the Pinacoteca. It began as a center of study and then grew over time as the beneficiary of those in power through both gifts and formal regulations. The library founded in 1770 by Empress Maria Theresa of Austria has continued to grow in stature and volume ever since. Originally the collection consisted of the contents of the estate of Count Carlo Pertusati, who was once the president of the senate of Milan. His collection included 24,000 items, mostly concerning history and literature. The architect Giuseppe Piermarini later renovated the location and the library grew even larger with the addition of 14,000 volumes of mostly scientific works donated by estate of the Swiss doctor, Albrecht von Haller, in 1778.
As well as continuing donations of volumes and funds, government regulations on publishing have enabled the Braidense to acquire a huge number of books and manuscripts on a wide range of topics. Since 1788, publishers had to deposit copies of every book in print in Milan at this library. A revision to this rule in 1793 added other publications as well, and in 2006 the rule was amended to encompass all printing forms.
However, the students at the Accademia di Belle Arti di Brera do not spend all their time poring over art and historical manuscripts, and neither should you. The entire area is full of art galleries showing contemporary artists eager for you to see their work. Tucked in between them are smart shops full of stylish clothing and fantastic home furnishings for sale. While you are in the neighborhood, do not forget to stop by San Simpliciano. The church is on a tiny piazza on a side street off Corso Garibaldi, but it is worth the effort to stop by and see the beautiful frescoes, and the original stonework dating back to the 4th century.
When you are tired of walking, stop at one of the numerous cafes with seating both indoors or out. They are ideal for a refreshing drink, a quick bite to eat and, of course, a lot of entertainment watching people stroll by on the nearby streets. You can finish off your meal with gelato from one of the many shops in the area offering this cold treat made from all-natural, and completely delicious, ingredients. You can imagine the artists, who used to meet at bars in the area and discuss art – or just drink – right up until the 1960s, after which the Brera district became less an artists’ quarter and more a fashionable district.
In the evening, Via Fiori Chiari comes alive with visitors strolling from one nightlife venue to the next, tempted by tarot-card and palm-readers with their flickering candles. But you can’t help wondering about the modernity of ages past and present: would Mr. Berlusconi or Mr. Obama ever consent to a portrait analogous to that of Emperor Napoleon?
Carolyn Bender
Henry Neuteboom