Water and weather

However high-tech our world becomes, we are always dependent on the weather. Just a minor aberration such as the eruption of a volcano and everything goes haywire. The Icelandic volcano Eyjafjallajökull caused havoc in air travel and, according to some, may have triggered changes in rainfall patterns. There is no doubt that Italy's spring, usually a month of fairly mixed weather but with a good proportion of mild sunny days, was exceptionally cold and wet, possibly due to the volcanic dust which constitutes condensation nuclei encouraging the formation of clouds. And rain. There have been other far more cataclysmic events in the past that had such effects. In 1815, the massive eruption of Mounta Tambora caused 1816 to become the "Year without a summer." It snowed in New York in June, and the cold weather and heavy rain all over the world caused crops to fail. In Italy, red snow (coloured by the volcanic ash) fell throughout the summer. Admittedly, the Eyjafjallajökull eruption is relatively small in comparison to Tambora, and to Pinatubo in 1991, but it's difficult not to make the connection between the Icelandic volcano and this year's rain.

Actually, thirty years ago, Italians could go to the beach in August fairly sure of two or three weeks' perfect summer weather, ideal for cultivating their chic Mediterranean tan and enjoying the classic holiday under beach umbrellas. For a good few years, this has no longer been the case, and August can be a month with quite variable conditions. One thing remains unchanged: July is still the most uncomfortable period in Milan, with the climate reaching high levels of temperature and above all humidity, which push up purchases of air-conditioning units, fans, iced coffee and gelato.

Some of the city's museums become more attractive in the July heat, if only for their cool and watery theme. One example is rather a "backwater" of the city's cultural life, the Civic Aquarium in Parco Sempione (not far from the Castle and Cadorna rail station). The Acquario Civico is relatively small, in comparison with, for example, the fantastic Aquarium in Genoa, but nonetheless it presents over 100 species of marine life, with a special focus on Italian fish, but with specimens from Africa, Asia and Latin-America. It was inaugurated in 1906, as part of the celebrations for the opening of the Simplon tunnel. It was built in the style in vogue at that time, Art Nouveau, and this was particularly appropriate because this type of architecture and decor is characteristic for its complex, organic forms, with a wealth of decorative motifs deriving - in this particular building -  from the marine habitat. Designed by Sebastiano Locati, the building was seriously damaged by air raids in 1943, but soon after it was sensitively rebuilt, and today the exteriors are a fine example of the style. Inside, the tanks were renewed in 2006, and one particularly striking exhibit is the water tunnel, which offers visitors a chance to experience the feeling of seeing water from all sides - as if they themselves were fish or octopi. The Aquarium is arranged in such a way as to trace the life of water, from its origin as a mountain brook to its ultimate destination, the sea. Each of the 25 tanks tells a separate story of the hidden world beneath the waves.

Neptune, the god of water and the sea in Roman mythology, stands triumphantly at the entrance to the Aquarium. Neptune is placed above a small pool with Koi fish (in Japan, symbols of love and friendship) and marine plants, and just above, an engaging hippopotamus spouts water through moss-encrusted teeth and water plants. The exterior walls of the building are decorated with carved images of shells, walrus, squid, and many other sea creatures. Just a quick glance at the carvings tells a fantastic story of aquatic life.

There may be some aquatic life in Milan's canals, or navigli, but today they are better known for their nightlife on the streetsides. They were built from 1179 as a means of transport, and all the marble used to build the Cathedral was ferried from the quarries at Candoglia using the canals. The harbour, or Darsena, used to offload tons of sand and gravel every day until a few decades ago. Nowadays people flock to the Naviglio Grande and Naviglio Pavese for the interesting venues, ranging from pubs and pizzerias to cocktail bars and music clubs. Something of the canal's original vocation is preserved by rowing clubs such as Canottieri Milano, and by an event created by the Navigli of Lombardia and the Municipality of Milan, the “Trofeo di Leonardo,” originally a 1930s powerboat race along the Naviglio Grande but now performed in rubber dinghies.

If it gets very hot in July, a trip to the Castle can be enjoyable, particularly the Cortile Ducale where a 19th century reproduction of a shallow pool with fountains shows the sort of air-conditioning that was used in the Renaissance. And will it carry on raining? Well, as the quotation goes, if the weather didn’t change once in a while, nine out of ten people couldn’t start a conversation. Or write an article!

Henry Neuteboom