Wanderings of a Wannabe Milanese: how to work the aperitivo

6pm. Anyone fancy an aperitivo tonight? Ooh yes, you say, perhaps unsure exactly what that entails but this is evening in Milan: whatever it is it is likely to involve drinking, food and a good time. the aperitivo is something you just cannot miss out on.

6:30pm. Arrival at any number of bars across town. The scene is set: groups of friends standing and chatting, couples cosy at tables, and, well, you. Waiters bustling about, delicious cocktails brought forthwith from the bar itself, and an array of food laid out, ranging from small cold nibbles, to huge dishes of hot food and a buffet most easily attacked with a knife and fork. This uniquely Milanese tradition (indeed, I did receive some odd looks as I loitered expectantly at the bar whilst recently in Rome) begins in the early evening, any day and at any kind of location: even the most local of local bars usually has something to offer the night time, post-work and hungry crowd. The idea is simple: order ‘un drink’, and whether it be water or a mini umbrella-topped elaborate fruit cocktail, you are entitled to plunder the nibbles at the bar for the duration of your stay. Essentially it is free food, though subsidised in the price of whatever liquids you consume (which of course, especially if the food is good, is probably a pretty large quantity), and whilst some normal manners do not apply, there is most definitely an aperitivo code which should be adhered to in any circumstance.

            Nowadays many places are too cool to offer a menu. So clue up on your drinks knowledge, so at least you look the part as you confidently stroll in, knowing already what you’re going to be drinking. Order first. Throw some pitying glances at the tourists who don’t know any better than to ravage mini pizzas immediately upon arrival… before joining them yourself. Locate the crucial aperitivo equipment and beware, these are not always in the most obvious or accessible places. Most essential are the paper napkin, plate (be it paper or finest china), and some sort of eating tool- this can range from a plastic fork to a multi-purpose wooden stick. The latter of course can be used for a subtle stab at someone’s greedy hand to make your own entry to the bar, which should be done assertively at either the left or right sight, never the middle. Hold firm. Move with the flow of people in one direction, be sure not to fight it or you could miss that enormous self-scoop parmesan cheese that you’ve had your eye on since you came in. Pile up your plate. There is no ‘too much’ no ‘too greedy’ in a Milanese aperitivo-drinker’s vocabulary, it is ultimately a free for all and you must stake your claim on the bruschetta before that beady eyed couple fast approaching from behind get there. You can ask what certain dishes are, but if in doubt take a bit anyway, as someone you are with is bound to enjoy that raw sushi-style salmon even if it isn’t to your liking. Keep your eye on the bar. Once you have returned to your table or leaning post, just be aware of the layout of the bar and where your favourite things are on it. That way, when a dish is replaced you can be first to sink your teeth in. Work it like a true Milanese and you will have no problem taking full advantage of one of the city’s best loved traditions.

By Olivia Nairn